Nice work! We also use this two-step process for the appliqués we've done. I've noticed some built-in and purchased ones have 3 steps, but we've skipped one to do it our way. Their 3 steps are: 1) an outline you stitch into just the appliqué material and then cut it out, 2) an outline stitched into just the base material for placement, and finally 3) the wider stitch that attaches the appliqué to the base material. Oddly, sometimes this is a T-stitch, but I prefer a satin. In order to do the faster 2 step process, I've skipped step 1 or 2 and just made the first step stitching down the appliqué to the base, then cut it, then the wide stitch (like you did), but you should be aware of the 3-step method in case you buy a pattern or use a built-in. Tip 1: If you use Duplicate (Command+D) instead of Copy/Paste, the second copy will already be in the same place. Tip 2: Instead of sharp corners, put a tiny bit of round on them so your satin bends around the corner instead of instantly turning (which overlaps part and leaves and outside gap). It would be nice if Ink/Stitch made a better bevel on corners; rounding is just a work-around.
Great work. Im surprised there wasnt a registration error when you took the hoop out to trim the fabric and put it back in to.complete the satin stitch. You did a great job securing the shirt in the hoop. Nice work team
Thank you! From what we know you can add an offset to appliqué, but we aren’t sure how to do it yet. Once we learn more we’ll try to make a video on this subject!
Thank you! It’s surprisingly easy to change the needle. The machine will sense when it breaks, and stop fortunately, but it can bunch up your material, as it did with us.
Another lovely tutorial, question for the tack down stitch why does it do a straight stitch if you change the lines to dotted? One thing I do for the statin stitch layer in ink stitch I convert the line into satin and it curves the ends and makes it smooth(not sure if you use that figure for your satin layers)
Hi! This might be a params setting that you can change. If you go to Extensions - Ink/Stitch - Params, make sure that the method of the stroke is zig-zag and not a bean stitch. Hope this helps !
I keep coming back to you for tutorials. I enjoy how you teach. I think I’m missing something. Can you link me to a video that shows how to change the stitches? Example satin, straight and the fill. I follow what you do and I seem to get a zig zag stitch. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks for watching! We cover why/how we change the types of stitches in this video at 3:04. And in this video: m.ruclips.net/video/yBBMNX6ZDJY/видео.html&pp=sAQA at 2:50. Hope this helps!
Hello there. I have a question for you. I removed the filling of the number 6 in ink stitch. I gave 3 millimeters as stroke. Then when you turn it into an applique, the number is divided into parts and does not give a healthy result.
Thanks for watching! We save all of our designs as .zip files because we can save it as a .pes (which is the file our machine uses) and a .svg (which lets us revisit and edit the design in Inkscape) in a single save.
is there a way you can fix the corners in the satin stitch for the letter...? i'm used to using pe design 10, but i no longer have that software... don't want to spend $texas on a digitizing program, and many other tutorials aren't as good as your guy's... but i noticed that many of the corners of the satin stitch aren't as polished as real embroidery software... can it be done, or should i just invest in the real software...??? thx...
After we posted this video we learned (from a comment above) that there is only a "workaround" to get the corners to stitch better (by rounding the corners). To us, it is a minor inconvenience for a free embroidery software. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
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Nice work!
We also use this two-step process for the appliqués we've done. I've noticed some built-in and purchased ones have 3 steps, but we've skipped one to do it our way. Their 3 steps are: 1) an outline you stitch into just the appliqué material and then cut it out, 2) an outline stitched into just the base material for placement, and finally 3) the wider stitch that attaches the appliqué to the base material. Oddly, sometimes this is a T-stitch, but I prefer a satin. In order to do the faster 2 step process, I've skipped step 1 or 2 and just made the first step stitching down the appliqué to the base, then cut it, then the wide stitch (like you did), but you should be aware of the 3-step method in case you buy a pattern or use a built-in.
Tip 1: If you use Duplicate (Command+D) instead of Copy/Paste, the second copy will already be in the same place.
Tip 2: Instead of sharp corners, put a tiny bit of round on them so your satin bends around the corner instead of instantly turning (which overlaps part and leaves and outside gap). It would be nice if Ink/Stitch made a better bevel on corners; rounding is just a work-around.
Thank you so much for the tips!
Thanks so much. I learned a lot!
Great video !! 👍
Great work. Im surprised there wasnt a registration error when you took the hoop out to trim the fabric and put it back in to.complete the satin stitch. You did a great job securing the shirt in the hoop. Nice work team
Thank you!
Great video , great job👍🏼
Thank you, glad you liked the video!
Thanks for all of your videos. Can you make a video doing a double appliqué? Like an offset appliqué with a different color.
Thanks so much for watching our videos! We'll research this and try to create a video on this idea eventually!
Its very hard to see what you guys are doing on the computer with the 4 being in white...
Great Tutorial ! Is there a way to add an offset to the applique?
Thank you! From what we know you can add an offset to appliqué, but we aren’t sure how to do it yet. Once we learn more we’ll try to make a video on this subject!
Love it !!! You guys are amazing... never stop making videos please lol. Also, what happens if a needle breaks. Is it hard to replace the needle?
Thank you! It’s surprisingly easy to change the needle. The machine will sense when it breaks, and stop fortunately, but it can bunch up your material, as it did with us.
Another lovely tutorial, question for the tack down stitch why does it do a straight stitch if you change the lines to dotted?
One thing I do for the statin stitch layer in ink stitch I convert the line into satin and it curves the ends and makes it smooth(not sure if you use that figure for your satin layers)
Can’t say for sure, why the dotted line makes a straight stitch… but it’s a nice feature we like to use for appliqué. Thank you for the tips!
My outline stroke isn’t stitching out thicker even after I adjust the width. Any solutions?
Hi! This might be a params setting that you can change. If you go to Extensions - Ink/Stitch - Params, make sure that the method of the stroke is zig-zag and not a bean stitch. Hope this helps !
I keep coming back to you for tutorials. I enjoy how you teach. I think I’m missing something. Can you link me to a video that shows how to change the stitches? Example satin, straight and the fill. I follow what you do and I seem to get a zig zag stitch. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks for watching! We cover why/how we change the types of stitches in this video at 3:04. And in this video: m.ruclips.net/video/yBBMNX6ZDJY/видео.html&pp=sAQA at 2:50. Hope this helps!
Hello there. I have a question for you. I removed the filling of the number 6 in ink stitch. I gave 3 millimeters as stroke. Then when you turn it into an applique, the number is divided into parts and does not give a healthy result.
Sorry to hear that, what seems to be the issue with your results?
Why are you saving it as zip file?
Thanks for watching! We save all of our designs as .zip files because we can save it as a .pes (which is the file our machine uses) and a .svg (which lets us revisit and edit the design in Inkscape) in a single save.
is there a way you can fix the corners in the satin stitch for the letter...? i'm used to using pe design 10, but i no longer have that software... don't want to spend $texas on a digitizing program, and many other tutorials aren't as good as your guy's... but i noticed that many of the corners of the satin stitch aren't as polished as real embroidery software... can it be done, or should i just invest in the real software...??? thx...
After we posted this video we learned (from a comment above) that there is only a "workaround" to get the corners to stitch better (by rounding the corners). To us, it is a minor inconvenience for a free embroidery software. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!